Rain, rain, rain, on and off. All day, all night. I am protected when I walk Tango by my rain gear, and I am warm and dry at night in my tent. The Mr. Buddy heater inside the tent drives off the chilly evening air once again while I listen to an audiobook in my tent (“Ghost Rider: On the Healing Road” by Neil Peart, the former Rush drummer).

I arrived back into early spring up here in Juneau. Temps are lower, that rain is more frequent and the true arbiter of spring – the Skunk Cabbage – is just now blooming. In Petersberg, the plants had gone way past the blooming stage and developed huge leaves almost overnight, like zucchini plants. In Juneau, the flowers are opening. I have been in and out of early spring since the second week of April, about 2 hours north of Lake Powell, in Utah. I am beginning to think that if I ever find summer, it will be for a week or so at the most before we descend into fall. However, it seems ungrateful to complain about anything up here – each day is so full of new things and wondrous sights. Rain and chilly weather is just how it is. It is a dynamic that those who live here reconcile in their own ways. Positives vs. negatives. The positives outnumber the negatives, at least for those who love the outdoors.

Last fall I followed Autumn as I headed the other direction, north to south, from Spokane to New Mexico.  As snow started to fall behind me, in Idaho, the Cottonwoods along creeks in Utah were still yellow. It is an interesting way to travel. Edwin Way Teale, writer and naturalist, wrote “North with the Spring” (1951) and “Journey into Summer” (1961) about this very process. I devoured his books long ago and think of him now when I follow the seasons.

The Mendenhall Campground is spiffy clean. Yesterday morning, after coffee and breakfast at McDonald’s, I had a long, hot shower back at the campground. A long, hot, free shower. I have paid over $3 for such a treat, but my tax dollars are at work here and the shower is free. My site has enough room for the big tent, but not the screen house. Across the drive to the south, I see a small pond with Lesser Scaup floating slowly and diving for food. To the north, Mendenhall Lake and a partial view of the Glacier.

I am in campsite #8

The only drawback to the campground is also its primary appeal – the glacier. What could be the downside to overlooking a massive glacier and towering mountains? Helicopter tours. Last evening, helicopters flew overhead about every 30-45 minutes, stopping around 9 PM. This morning, they started again around 9 AM, but are less frequent and are approaching the glacier from a different angle, further away from me. Every hour, maybe.

The whole setting is kind of surreal. Massive glacier, snowy mountains, glacier-fed lake. Endless eagles. Then the helicopter noise starts. Housing developments sit right outside the campground, the McDonald’s and grocery stores are only a few miles away. It is a wilderness experience in the suburbs, something I have not experienced before. Imagine a small city right up to the Yellowstone entrance or up against Glacier National Park.  Although suburban-wilderness interfaces are never a win for wildlife, I don’t actually mind the setup. I like my cozy campsite and proximity to the glacier but also going into town. At least for a while. In two weeks I will be driving inland through rugged country along the east flank of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. I will be ready for that too!

Vickie and Jerry are in a spot about 5 minutes down the road. Yesterday, they invited me in for coffee and a muffin. Tango got to come in too and greet their dog, Munchkin. They offered to babysit Tango this afternoon so I can wander in town. My plan is to hit up the beautiful library and do some research on the ferry system. I saw the library when I drove through town the first night and was impressed by its size and modern architecture. Libraries often reveal the true character of a town.

The dark cloud cover sinks below the mountaintops and the helicopters are absent for now. Tango snores next to me while I think about getting ready for my library outing. All is well.